Can you keep garden mums alive after they bloom? Yes, you absolutely can keep garden mums alive and thriving year after year with proper care. These cheerful fall bloomers, scientifically known as Chrysanthemum, offer a vibrant splash of color when other plants are fading. However, many gardeners treat them as annuals, discarding them after the first frost. This guide will show you how to move beyond that and enjoy your garden mums for seasons to come.
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The Basics of Mum Planting
Getting your mum planting right from the start is key to their long-term success. Whether you’ve just bought a pot from the nursery or are transplanting an existing plant, the process is straightforward.
Choosing the Right Spot
Mums love sunshine. They need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day to produce the best blooms and maintain a healthy structure. A location that offers good air circulation is also beneficial, as this helps prevent fungal diseases. Avoid planting them in areas that are constantly damp or prone to waterlogging.
Mum Planting: Depth and Spacing
When it comes to mum planting, the depth is crucial. Plant your mums at the same depth they were in their nursery pot. You don’t want to bury the crown (where the stems meet the roots) too deeply, as this can lead to rot.
- Spacing: Give your mums room to grow. For most garden mum varieties, space them about 18 to 24 inches apart. This allows for good air circulation and prevents overcrowding, which can hinder growth and encourage disease. If you’re planting smaller, more compact varieties, you might get away with slightly closer spacing, but always check the plant tag for specific recommendations.
Preparing the Soil
The best soil for mums is well-draining and rich in organic matter. Before planting, amend your soil with compost or well-rotted manure. This improves drainage and provides essential nutrients.
- Soil pH: Mums prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil, with a pH range of 6.0 to 6.7. You can test your soil’s pH with a simple home testing kit. If your soil is too acidic, you can add lime; if it’s too alkaline, you can add sulfur.
Mum Watering: The Right Amount and Frequency
Proper mum watering is vital for healthy growth and abundant blooms. Overwatering or underwatering can stress the plant and lead to problems.
How Much Water?
Mums like consistently moist soil, but not soggy. A good rule of thumb is to water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
Watering Techniques
- Water at the Base: Always water your mums at the base of the plant, directly onto the soil. Avoid wetting the foliage, especially in the evening. Wet leaves can encourage fungal diseases like powdery mildew and leaf spot.
- Morning Watering: The best time to water is in the morning. This allows any water that might splash onto the leaves to dry off quickly in the sun.
- Check Soil Moisture: Don’t just water on a schedule. Stick your finger into the soil about an inch or two down. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still moist, wait a bit longer.
Table 1: Mum Watering Guide
| Condition | Watering Frequency | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hot, Dry Weather | Daily or Every Other Day | Check soil moisture frequently. |
| Moderate Weather | Every 2-3 Days | Adjust based on rainfall and soil dryness. |
| Cool, Humid Weather | Once a Week or Less | Be cautious to avoid overwatering. |
| Newly Planted Mums | Frequent Watering | Keep soil consistently moist until established. |
| Established Mums | Deep Watering | Water less often but more thoroughly to encourage deep root growth. |
Mum Fertilizing: Feeding Your Flowers
Consistent mum fertilizing is essential to support their vigorous growth and prolific blooming. Mums are heavy feeders, especially when they are actively growing and flowering.
When to Fertilize
- Spring: Once new growth appears in spring, you can start fertilizing.
- Summer: Continue fertilizing throughout the summer months. Stop fertilizing about 6-8 weeks before your average first frost date. Fertilizing too late in the season can promote soft, new growth that is vulnerable to frost damage.
What Type of Fertilizer?
A balanced fertilizer, such as one with a 10-10-10 NPK ratio, is a good choice for established mums. For mums that are already flowering, you might switch to a fertilizer that is slightly lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium to encourage more blooms.
- Application: Follow the instructions on the fertilizer packaging. Generally, you can apply a granular fertilizer around the base of the plant or use a liquid fertilizer diluted in water.
Mum Pruning: Shaping for Better Blooms
Proper mum pruning is not just about aesthetics; it’s crucial for plant health, bushiness, and maximizing bloom production.
Pinching for Bushiness
This is one of the most important techniques for getting those gorgeous, full mum plants. Pinching involves removing the tip of the main stem. This encourages the plant to branch out, resulting in a bushier plant with more flowers.
- When to Pinch: Start pinching young plants in late spring and continue doing so every few weeks until mid-summer (around July).
- How to Pinch: Use your fingers or clean pruning shears to snip off the top 1-2 inches of the stem, just above a set of leaves. New shoots will emerge from the leaf nodes.
Deadheading
Mum deadheading involves removing spent or faded flowers. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and encourages it to produce more blooms.
- When to Deadhead: As soon as you see a flower begin to fade, snip it off.
- How to Deadhead: Cut the flower stem back to the nearest set of healthy leaves or a side bud.
Fall Pruning
After your mums have finished blooming in the fall, you’ll want to cut them back.
- When to Prune: Cut back all the dead and dying stems to about 4-6 inches from the ground after the first hard frost has killed the foliage.
- Why Prune: This helps prevent disease and prepares the plant for winter.
Mum Repotting: Giving Them New Space
If you have mums growing in pots, repotting is necessary to ensure they have adequate space and fresh nutrients.
When to Repot
- Spring: The best time to repot is in early spring as new growth begins. This allows the plant to establish itself in its new pot before the heat of summer.
- Signs: If your mum is pot-bound (roots are circling the pot, or water drains very quickly), it’s time to repot.
The Repotting Process
- Choose a New Pot: Select a pot that is 2-4 inches larger in diameter than the current one. Ensure it has drainage holes.
- Prepare the Pot: Add a layer of fresh, well-draining potting mix to the bottom of the new pot.
- Remove the Mum: Gently slide the mum out of its old pot. If it’s stuck, you may need to tap the sides or use a knife to loosen the soil around the edges.
- Loosen Roots: If the roots are tightly bound, gently loosen them with your fingers. You can even trim any circling roots.
- Plant the Mum: Place the mum in the new pot so that the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot.
- Fill with Soil: Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, gently firming it around the root ball.
- Water: Water the mum thoroughly after repotting.
Winterizing Garden Mums: Protecting for Next Year
Winterizing garden mums is crucial for their survival in colder climates. While some varieties are hardier than others, a little protection goes a long way.
Why Winterize?
The roots of mums can be damaged by freezing and thawing cycles, and the crown can be susceptible to frost heave.
Methods for Winterizing Garden Mums
- Cut Back: As mentioned earlier, cut back the foliage to about 4-6 inches after the first hard frost.
- Mulch: Apply a thick layer (4-6 inches) of mulch around the base of the plant. This can include straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips. Mulch insulates the soil and protects the roots from extreme temperature fluctuations.
- Covering: In very cold climates, you might consider covering the entire plant with a layer of evergreen boughs or burlap after the ground has frozen slightly. This provides an extra layer of insulation.
- Pot-Bound Mums: If your mums are in pots and you live in a very cold area, it’s best to move the pots to a protected location like an unheated garage, shed, or basement. Keep them cool but not freezing. Water sparingly during their dormancy.
Common Mum Problems and Solutions
Even with the best care, mums can sometimes face issues. Here are some common mum problems and how to address them.
Pests
- Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects that feed on sap. They can cause distorted growth and sticky honeydew.
- Solution: A strong spray of water can knock them off. For heavier infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Spider Mites: Tiny pests that thrive in dry conditions, causing stippling on leaves and fine webbing.
- Solution: Increase humidity by misting, use insecticidal soap, or neem oil.
- Leaf Miners: Larvae that tunnel through leaves, creating serpentine mines.
- Solution: Remove and destroy infested leaves. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can be used to target the larvae before they tunnel.
Diseases
- Powdery Mildew: A white, powdery growth on leaves, stems, and flowers. Favored by humid conditions and poor air circulation.
- Solution: Ensure good air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning. Water at the base of the plant. Fungicides can be used as a preventative or treatment.
- Leaf Spot: Fungal disease causing spots on leaves.
- Solution: Remove infected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Fungicides can help manage severe outbreaks.
- Root Rot: Caused by overwatering and poor drainage, leading to soggy roots and wilting.
- Solution: Ensure good drainage. Avoid overwatering. If caught early, you may be able to repot in fresh, well-draining soil.
Table 2: Common Mum Problems and Their Fixes
| Problem | Symptoms | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aphids | Yellowing leaves, sticky residue, distorted growth | Sap-sucking insects | Spray with water, insecticidal soap, or neem oil. |
| Spider Mites | Stippled leaves, fine webbing | Dry conditions, tiny mites | Increase humidity, insecticidal soap, or neem oil. |
| Powdery Mildew | White, powdery coating on leaves | Fungal disease, high humidity, poor air circulation | Improve air circulation, water at base, use fungicides. |
| Root Rot | Wilting, yellowing leaves, mushy roots | Overwatering, poor drainage | Ensure good drainage, water properly, repot in well-draining soil if severe. |
| Aphids | Tiny green or black insects on new growth | Sap-sucking insects | Blast with water, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. |
| Chrysanthemum Gall Midge | Swollen, distorted new growth buds | Tiny fly larvae | Remove and destroy affected buds, use insecticides if infestation is severe. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
When should I plant garden mums?
The best time to plant garden mums is in the spring, after the danger of the last frost has passed. This gives them time to establish a strong root system before the heat of summer and the cold of winter. While you can plant them in the fall for immediate color, they are more likely to struggle in their first winter.
Can I plant mums in pots year-round?
Yes, you can plant mums in pots year-round, but you’ll need to provide winter protection. In colder climates, bring potted mums indoors to a cool, protected location (like an unheated garage or shed) during the winter months.
How do I make my mums bloom longer?
To encourage longer blooming, regularly deadhead spent flowers. Ensure your mums receive adequate sunlight and consistent watering. Avoid heavy fertilization late in the season, as this can promote foliage growth at the expense of blooms.
Why are my mums not blooming?
Several factors can cause mums to not bloom:
* Insufficient Sunlight: Mums need at least six hours of direct sun daily.
* Incorrect Pruning: Pinching too late in the season can remove the flower buds.
* Poor Fertilization: Either too much nitrogen or not enough nutrients can affect blooming.
* Stress: Drought stress or extreme temperatures can prevent flowering.
* Varietal Differences: Some varieties naturally bloom earlier or later than others.
How do I prepare mums for winter if they are in the ground?
After the first hard frost, cut back the foliage to about 4-6 inches. Then, apply a thick layer of mulch (4-6 inches) around the base of the plants to insulate the roots. In very cold regions, you might add extra protection like evergreen boughs or burlap.
By following these detailed steps, you can ensure your garden mums not only survive but thrive, bringing their brilliant colors to your garden year after year. Happy gardening!